Chicharrón is one of those dishes that changes its personality depending on where you are in the world.
In much of Andalusia chicharrones are crunchy bites of pork belly or jowl. They are cooked until they reach that perfect golden crisp, then seasoned with spices and salt.
The story of chicharrón stretches back further than many expect. Research suggests that pork crackling arrived in the fifteenth century, shortly after the Spanish set foot in New Castile in 1533. There were no pigs in the Inca region before the conquest, so there were certainly no chicharrones.
The Incas instead enjoyed dishes such as pachamanca. After the fall of Atahualpa, the Spanish introduced their own foods and ingredients. Isabella even sent ten sows and one pig to the Indies, and several ships brought more pigs to feed their crews.
A bite with history
People often say, slightly cheekily, that “only those without teeth do not eat pork cracklings,” a nod to how widespread and irresistible they are. It is believed that cracklings became popular towards the end of the colonial period, when pig rearing was often done by slaves.
The preparation was simple but effective. Fresh herbs, garlic, onion, and salt went into the pot. Once cooked properly, the meat was known as desarropano. These crackling bites were rich, full of flavour, and left behind little more than crumbs.
The word chicharrón itself comes from the Arabic charrún, which traces back to Sanskrit chardodí, meaning “wandering flock.” Cracklings are also cousins to other favourites such as torreznos and flamenquines. They are often served with tostones, a sharp vinaigrette, and a dollop of mayonnaise.
Andalusian chicharrón
Traditionally, families prepared chicharrón throughout the year. While chorizo had its season in January, cracklings did not follow a calendar. The local vendor would buy the pork, trim off the fat to make lard, and then fry the meat slowly in that very same fat.
Today, production has become more industrial. Cracklings are made from the skin and fat, starting with pork rinds that are cleaned, simmered, and cooked in large cylindrical containers. After half an hour or so, the water and fat separate, leaving behind the prized crackling. The process, however, is not ideal for sausage making, as it produces strong acidifiers that affect the fat and ultimately the flavour of other products.
Chicharrón in Madrid
In Madrid, chicharrón is incredibly popular and can be found in many butcher shops. There are two types: lean crackling and the fattier pork belly version. In the Sierra de Madrid, it is not unusual to see a crackling sandwich served with jam!
A Festival for the crispy faithful
Seville loves chicharrón so much that it has an entire festival devoted to it: Chicharfest, a celebration held every November. The name says it all. It is a wholehearted tribute to fried pork belly.
These days, you can find chicharrón in almost any butcher shop. If you want the perfect cut for frying, look for panceta soriana or torreznos sorianos in Spain.
Ingredients for Pork Cracklings
To make your own chicharrón at home, you only need a few things:
- Two thick strips of fresh pork belly
- A pinch of salt
- A pinch of ground black pepper
- Water
How to make Pork Cracklings
This method will take around forty minutes.
- Make parallel cuts in the pork belly, roughly a finger apart, but do not cut through the rind. This helps it cook evenly.
- Season lightly with salt. Some pork belly is already salted, so be careful.
- Place the strips in a non stick pan and cover them with about a finger’s depth of water.
- Let the water boil away completely so the flavour intensifies.
- When the water has evaporated, keep cooking over medium heat, allowing the pork to fry slowly in its own fat.
Brown the pork on both sides until beautifully crisp. Your homemade cracklings are ready to enjoy.
