Spanish confectionery boasts an extraordinary variety of festive treats, but few are as iconic at Christmas as mantecados.
Mantecados are traditional Spanish sweets made with lard and enjoyed during the festive season.
Although their exact birthplace is still debated, their roots lie firmly in Andalusia. Both Estepa and Antequera claim the honour of being the first to produce them.
Origin and history
The story of mantecados begins in Estepa, where, as early as the 16th century, lard was commonly used in baking. This is thanks to the abundance of holm oaks in the surrounding forests, the perfect terrain for raising pigs.
Both local households and the nuns at the Convent of Santa Clara prepared lard-based pastries, gradually creating a sweet very similar to the mantecado we know today.
A key turning point came in the 19th century, thanks to Filomena Micaela Ruiz Téllez, better known as La Colchona. She gave her husband, who travelled between Estepa and Córdoba transporting goods, large batches of mantecados to sell at the markets he visited.
Her innovation? Drying the mantecados. This made them easier to transport, extended their shelf life, and ensured they remained soft inside with a slightly firm exterior.
By the early 20th century, the growing demand led to the emergence of small family-run factories in Estepa. This soon turned the town into a hub of mantecado production. New brands appeared, mixers were introduced to streamline the process, and together they produced nearly 400,000 kilos of mantecados.
Mantecado or polvorón?
Although the two terms are often confused, they are not the same.
Polvorones began as a variation of mantecados. Both are small cakes made from wheat flour, sugar and lard, but they differ in shape, finish and even in when they are traditionally eaten.
- Mantecados are typically round and may include flavours such as almond, cinnamon or chocolate.
- Polvorones are oval, dusted generously with icing sugar, and usually flavoured with almond or lemon.
In many regions, mantecados are enjoyed throughout the year, while polvorones are strongly associated with Christmas.
Both are unmistakable thanks to their white tissue-paper wrappers, printed with the logo of each confectionery house.
What are mantecados made of?
The basic dough is simple: flour, sugar and lard Sometimes with cinnamon (common in mantecados) or almond and lemon (typical in polvorones).
To finish them:
- Mantecados are often topped with sesame seeds.
- Polvorones are dusted with icing sugar.
In addition to traditional flavours, modern variations include cocoa, lemon, coconut and other creative twists.
Recipe
Makes 30 pieces
- 300 g plain wheat flour
- 150 g lard
- 150 g sugar
- Ground cinnamon to taste (optional)
- Lemon zest to taste (optional)
- Toasted sesame seeds
Drying the flour is optional, but it helps the mantecados keep for longer and gives them their characteristic texture. To do this, bake the flour in the oven at 150–160ºC (no fan); stir after 15 minutes and continue baking for a further 10–15 minutes, making sure it does not colour too much. Another option is to toast it in a frying pan, stirring constantly.
In any case, it is essential that the flour is completely cold and the lard is at room temperature. If using cinnamon, mix it with the flour; if using lemon, add it to the lard. Once the ingredients are ready, beat the lard and sugar together with a whisk until smooth and creamy. Gradually add the flour and continue mixing until the mixture becomes crumbly.
Tip the dough onto a clean work surface and knead until smooth and uniform. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest at room temperature in a cool place for at least one hour. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 180ºC (no fan).
