In the Cantabrian village of Silió, in Northern Spain, they kick things off on the first Sunday of January with Europe’s first festival of the year.
La Vijanera is a wild and wonderful tradition that is said to chase away evil spirits and bring good luck for the months ahead. Forget sequins, here the stars of the show are the zarramacos, men dressed head‑to‑toe in colourful furs, clanging with huge cowbells and topped with tall, pointy hats.
The day is packed with rituals and performances. After a raucous early morning wake‑up call (the bells start ringing around half six), the villagers gather to hear Las Coplas (witty verses that poke fun at the ups and downs of the year just gone.)
Next comes the famous bear hunt, a theatrical battle that symbolises the triumph of good over evil. When the bear finally “dies,” the crowd erupts, knowing they’ve secured good fortune for the year ahead.
La Vijanera isn’t just about the zarramacos. The town fills with a whole cast of curious characters: the Black and White Dancer, the Old Man and Old Woman, the Pregnant Lady and her hapless Husband, the Gorilonas, the Trapajeros, and of course, the Bear itself.
The festival’s roots go way back. Records of masquerades in the area date from 1786. In truth, La Vijanera is thought to have even older origins, linked to pagan rituals celebrating the winter solstice. The event died out during the Civil War and the years that followed, but a group of locals brought it back in 1982.
Today, it’s recognised as a Festival of National Tourist Interest, a badge it’s proudly worn since 2009.
