Bacalao al Pil Pil (Basque-Style Cod in Garlic Oil). If you like fish and garlic and haven’t tried this yet, you are missing out!
Few dishes capture the soul of Basque cooking quite like Bacalao al Pil Pil. With nothing more than cod, olive oil, garlic, and a touch of chili, the combination transforms into something extraordinary.
A dish born from a happy accident
The story goes back to 1836, when Bilbao merchant Simón Gurtubay received a rather surprising delivery: 20,022 salted cod instead of the modest 20–22 he’d ordered. As the Carlist Wars brought food shortages, Gurtubay sold his unexpected stockpile, but not before experimenting in his kitchen.
Using olive oil and garlic, he stumbled upon a sauce that locals soon dubbed “gupilada.”
The name “pil pil” is said to mimic the sound of the sauce bubbling gently as the oil and gelatin from the fish come together.
Bacalao al Pil Pil: Top tips
Mastering Bacalao al Pil Pil isn’t about fancy technique, it is about patience and balance. Here are a few kitchen secrets accidentally spilt to me by a Basque chef:
If you are using salted cod, soak it for 24 hours in cold water, changing the water every 8 hours. This step is crucial. Apparently if it is too salty, the subtle flavors are lost.
Low and slow is the way to go. The cod should barely sizzle as it cooks, this gentle heat releases the gelatin that gives the sauce its trademark texture.
Some chefs simmer the cod skin separately to extract extra gelatin. Strain it and whisk it into the sauce.
Ingredients
- 2 cod fillets (about 150 g each), salted or pre-desalted
- 150 ml extra virgin olive oil (Ybarra is a favorite for its smooth, balanced flavor)
- 5–6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 small chili (guindilla), chopped
- Fresh parsley, optional
- How to Make It
Infuse the oil:
Warm the olive oil gently with garlic and chili until just golden. Remove them before they brown, they will add crunch and a hint of spice later.
Cook the cod:
Pat dry and place the fillets in the flavored oil, skin side up. Let them cook slowly for 5–6 minutes, then flip for 2 more. When the sauce begins to thicken and shimmer, you are nearly there.
Whisk up the magic:
Take the cod out and let the oil cool slightly. Swirl or whisk it in circles with a fine sieve or mesh strainer until it thickens.
Bring it together:
Return the cod to the pan, warm everything gently, and top with your reserved garlic and chili.
Serve with restraint:
The key is balance. You want just enough sauce to coat, but not drown, the delicate fish. Add a sprinkle of parsley and enjoy.
