Madrid might be a long way from the sea, but it has never let that stop it enjoying fish. For centuries, the city has eaten plenty of it, and the famous calamari sandwich is proof.
Back in the 16th century, Madrid was already the political heart of Spain. Fish arrived from Galicia and the Cantabrian coast. It travelled for days on mule back, guided by Maragato muleteers from León along the Galician Road. To keep fish fresh, snow was stored in ice pits during winter and used well into summer.
Even with these efforts, fish did not always arrive in perfect condition. This explains some long standing traditions, such as serving fish with lemon slices. It even links to old celebrations like the Burial of the Sardine. Nothing went to waste, and people made the best of what arrived.
Madrid as an inland port
As time passed, things improved. By the 18th century, the postal relay system meant fish could reach Madrid in just four days. Later, the railway sealed the deal, creating a fast and steady link between the coast and the capital.
Madrid still had no harbour, but it worked like one. Seafood arrived daily, was sold, cooked and eaten without much fuss. Fish was normal food, not a luxury.
Yet there was a catch. Old Madrid cookbooks from the 18th century list sea bream, bonito tuna and sardines, but squid is missing. The famous sandwich was still waiting in the wings.
Religion changes the menu
Religion played its part. For centuries, Catholic rules banned meat at certain times of the year, especially during Lent. Fish became the obvious alternative for everyone, from the royal court to working families.
Pickled fish sold in barrels and clay bowls became common. It was cheap, filling and easy to store. Still, squid had not yet claimed its place.
Everything changed in the 19th century. Madrid grew, and so did its food scene. One major influence came from Andalusia. Fried fish, taverns and informal eating houses became part of city life.
At the same time, many people moved to Madrid from coastal regions like Galicia and Asturias. Many worked as cooks in family homes and knew seafood inside out. Some later opened their own bars and eateries, bringing their recipes with them.
Squid was ideal. It was affordable, had no bones, created little waste and tasted great once battered and fried. Put it in a crusty bread roll and you had a winner.
The calamari sandwich takes over
The real explosion came in the 1960s. Young people travelled into the city centre, especially around Plaza Mayor, to eat calamari sandwiches. They were cheap, filling and could be eaten standing up. Newspapers at the time even joked about streets filled with the smell of fried squid.
The sandwich became fuel for students, workers and anyone watching their budget. It was simple food for busy lives.
For years, the calamari sandwich was looked down on by some food critics. Today, it is firmly part of Madrid’s identity. You will find it in old neighbourhood bars and in modern versions that give it a twist..
Do you fancy making one at home?
If you would like to try it yourself, the recipe is nice and simple.
You need fresh squid rings, plain flour, salt, olive oil and good quality bread rolls. Dry the squid well, lightly coat in flour and fry in hot oil until golden. Drain, season with salt and serve immediately inside a sliced roll. Lemon is optional. Arguments about mayonnaise/alioli are entirely up to you.
Sometimes, the simplest things really are the best.
