Every year on 20th January, San Sebastián in the Basque country bursts into life with one of Spain’s loudest fiestas: La Tamborrada.
From the early hours, over 15,000 drummers fill the streets of the Basque city, dressed as chefs and soldiers, playing tunes for 24 hours.
What is La Tamborrada all about?
The Tamborrada traces its roots back to the Napoleonic occupation of the city. Local women once drummed on pots and pans to mock the French soldiers, a cheeky gesture of defiance.
Nowadays, the city’s culinary societies play a big part in the festival. Many participants don traditional Basque costumes or chef’s whites, represents the city’s strong food culture.
At midnight, the festivities kick off in at the Konstituzio Plaza (in the Old Town, or Alde Zaharra), where the mayor raises the city flag. Drummers then march through the streets, keeping the beat alive all day and night. When midnight strikes again, the flag is lowered simultaneously at several spots, marking the festival’s close.
A brief history
San Sebastián’s strategic location meant it was often caught up in military conflicts. The Siege of San Sebastián in 1813 was particularly brutal, causing thousands of casualties. The Tamborrada is believed to have emerged in the 1830s, when locals started mimicking the soldiers’ daily marches, using buckets and water pump parts to create percussion.
A local tradesman, Vicente “Txiki” Buenechea, later donated barrels to be used as drums. In 1881, old military uniforms were found and given to the city’s Unión Artesana club, which helped formalise the costumes worn today. By 1886, barrels became a key feature of the parade, and soon, other gastronomic clubs joined in, expanding the celebration.
The legend of the drumming baker
According to an urban legend, during a drought in 1720, a baker was fetching water and began to sing. Nearby women started drumming on their water basins to join in. Miraculously, the water kept flowing, and ever since, the drums have never stopped.
