Every year in early September, the town of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona, throws a fiery and musical celebration known as the Phylloxera Festival.
The event tells the tale of how the town overcame a tiny but terrifying enemy, the phylloxera insect, which nearly wiped out all their vineyards back in 1887.
What’s a phylloxera?
The creature is a tiny sap-sucking insect originally from North America. When it arrived in Europe in the late 19th century, it caused havoc by attacking grapevine roots and leaves, devastating vineyards across the continent, including those in Penedès, Catalonia’s famous wine region.
A festive retelling
The festival takes place over two days at various spots around Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. Through music, fire displays, and traditional pageantry, locals reenact the battle between the town’s farmers and the phylloxera plague.
On the evening of the 7th of September, the streets come alive with dancing giants, big-headed figures, and enormous phylloxera swarms taking a walk through the town. The next day, the phylloxera “attack” unfolds with parades featuring fire, sparks, and music symbolising both the plague’s destruction and its eventual defeat.
As night falls on the Carrer Raval, the procession gathers, ready to set off amid firelight and music. Farmers dance peacefully until the phylloxera launch their assault on the grapevines, which begin to burn with red flames.
Chaos erupts, and the farmers must regroup. Enter the Seven Sages of Greece, who dance solemnly to a waltz, trying to find a solution. At first, no luck. The phylloxera seems unstoppable. But then, the Sages have a eureka moment: the answer lies in American rootstocks, immune to the pest.
With this new knowledge, the plague is defeated. The vines come back to life, glowing with green flames to represent healing and renewal.
The celebration
To mark victory, the festival ends with a shower of cava, Catalonia’s famous sparkling wine, as music and dancing take over the Plaça de l’Església.
