Pericana is one of those dishes that simply must appear on the Christmas Eve table.
Its unmistakable flavour, born from the combination of dried peppers, dried cod loin, garlic, and generous Mediterranean olive oil, makes it an irresistible delicacy. In the La Hoya de Alcoy region, this dish has long been part of local tradition. Farmers once prepared it to regain strength after long days of work, often accompanied by nothing more than a good piece of bread.
This recipe comes from the inland gastronomy of the province of Alicante, an area known for its rich culinary heritage. The vegetables, fruits, and greens grown in its fertile orchards are at the heart of many traditional dishes, and pericana is no exception. Its flavours carry the essence of the region’s landscape and history, shaped by centuries of agricultural life.
What is Pericana?
Pericana, also known as pelicana, and in Elche as pipes i carasses, is a hallmark of the cuisine of l’Alcoià and El Comtat, the mountainous region where towns like Alcoy sit beneath the Sierra de Mariola.
One of the most famous versions, the pericana of Bocairent, blends olive oil with the local dried peppers known as cuarnets, along with salted or sun-dried fish such as dried cod or capellán. The name capellà in Valencian actually means “priest”, and folklore says that the cod, once opened and hung to dry, resembles a priest’s cassock.
Pericana’s origens
The origins of this centuries-old dish remain uncertain, but its connection to rural trades is unmistakable. Farmers, shepherds, and hunters relied on pericana for its rich nutritional value, carrying the dried ingredients with them and mixing everything with olive oil when needed.
The tradition evolved naturally in a region where fish once arrived only salted or dried, and where olive groves—many dating back to Moorish times—extend today across nearly 6,000 hectares.
Ingredients (Serves 4)
- 4 dried choricero peppers (string)
- 2 dried whiting (or capellanes)
- 2 garlic cloves
- 60 ml extra virgin olive oil
How to make Pericana
- Heat a griddle with a little olive oil and lightly sear the dried whiting. Remove and set aside.
- Toast the dried peppers on the same griddle, turning them quickly so they do not burn.
- Allow both ingredients to cool.
- Peel and finely mince the garlic.
- Open the peppers, remove the seeds, and cut the flesh into very small pieces.
- Flake the dried whiting, discarding the bones and head.
- Combine everything in a bowl and cover with extra virgin olive oil.
